OCT 2024 - ISSUE 23
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​and to download this issue of The LOG Newsletter

The 6 minute video below was presented at the meeting.
Making and installing gun deck ledge beams and knees
on an 18th century British Man of War

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SEP 2024 - ISSUE 22
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​and to download this issue of The LOG Newsletter

Below are downloadable PDFs of our monthly meeting LOG newsletters for the September 2023 through June 2024 season. They are available to everyone FREE for the taking.

We are introducing a Monthly LOG Newsletter in PDF format.
​They are located below and are available to anyone to download and view.
​Enjoy!

The MSON participated in this years Pelham Strawberry Festival with a model boat show.  We were represented with models by four of our members, Derek White, Ron Campbell, Tijs Theijsmeijer, and Alan O'Neill).  Our tables were manned by Derrek and Ron. We were joined by Garth Parrish, a member of the Confederation Marine Modelers of Hamilton.

Derek reported:  The day was pretty much dedicated to children. There was a lot of activities for the younger age. There was quite a few attendees. More than expected. For the most part, people walked past our display and looked with interest, but not so much from a modelling perspective. Very few people asked questions or made comments. I believe there was around 4 brochures taken.

Overall the day was a good day. Plenty of food and strawberry desserts. Our host was very kind and made sure we were well taken care of.

DOWNLOAD PDF OF BOAT SHOW PHOTOS ..........

Our June meeting had 24 people in attendance including two special guest speakers and four guest visitors who where interested in the topic of the month - our PAPER MODEL SYMPOSIUM.

​We had four speakers scheduled but only the following three had time to present.
Ian McLaughlin will make his presentation at another time yet to be scheduled.

Invited guest speaker Mike Ng presented his card stock scratch build of RMS Queen Mary 2 ​as seen in the images above.  The actual ship was built in 2003 so there was a lot of information available on the internet, which is where the profile image and deck plans were found.  He had the images scaled up from letter size paper to match his build scale of 1:360 (1" = 30 feet).

Mike discussed his build in detail, including materials and glues used on this project.  He used corrugated cardboard for in internal bulkheads and various paper and card thicknesses for the remainder.  Card has a grain and he explained the material needs to be bent or rolled into shape with the grain.
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Mike provided a PDF of his build which can be downloaded here....

Invited guest speaker Paul Fontenoy, the present Nautical Research Journal editor and former curator of three North Carolina, USA maritime museums for 25 years, presented a number of his paper/card models and explained in some detail the process.  e likes to present his models on a water base (as seen above).

Paul explained that, due to his museum experience, he avoids corrugated cardboard as the glue used in it's production is acidic and so will eventually degrade.  He also electronically scans his sheets before he uses them so if he makes a mistake he can reprint the sheet.  He uses acrylic  archival quality water based PVA glue for his builds.  When building thickness he laminates his paper (multiple layers) using photographic dry mounting tissue instead of glue because it won't warp the card.  Cutting tools need to be sharp, he rarely uses scissors, but when he does they are surgical scissors for their sharpness.  You cannot drill a hole in card.  Paul pierces his holes with a needle and then roll it round and round to enlarge the hole to the desired size, and then he cuts off the curled swarf on the underside with a very sharp knife blade.  When cutting out things like windows, cut from the inside outwards, and this mus be done first!  He also colours all edges before assembling his parts as if you don't there will be a prominent white line.  He uses water colour brush pens or pencils.  He avoids markers as they always bleed. He never uses CA (super) glue as it will leak into it and change the colour. If you want a sharp edge, cut the paper at 45°.  Pieces need to be shaped before assembly.

Paul creates his water base using 100% Rag Acid Free Cold Pressed Rough Surface Water Colour Paper (made in India) as it has a rippled effect on it's surface.  He will cutout a hole to suit his model and paint and additionally texture the surface. Using small dowels or split bamboo to create swells in the water.  These are stuck onto the mounting base and the paper is pressed over them.  Paul uses automotive touch up spray can flat paint to colour his water, top this off with a  gloss spray coat.  To add addition water cresting effect he uses acrylic artists GESSO paint applied in strips or stippled.  He adheres the paper to the mounting base with double sided carpet tape.  All his models are sprayed with a flat UV resistant finish to seal the colours so they will not fade over time. He Plexiglas cases all his models and applies felt pads under the bases which allows him to stack them, reducing his display area!  Paul also told us he uses the free download photo editing software "Irfan".

MSON member Ralf Schnurbusch, former editor of the TransAtlantic Paper Model Magazine presented an introduction and history of paper modeling.  Ralf described how paper modeling changed from 2D to 3D using theoretical knowledge provided by Euclid (300BC) and that suitable paper was only produced in Germany after the 13th century.  The oldest discovered paper model was the sundial cruxifix of 1529. Most paper models are printed on 2mm (80g/m2) paper and that eastern design uses 1 to 2 mm paper for bulkheads.  He explained paper has a grain running vertically or parallel to the longer side and that rolling is impossible if the grain is too thick.  After a  short history Ralf showed us quite a number of paper models he had built.

Our May virtual ZOOM meeting was attended by 16 people.  You can tell the good weather has arrived!

Joe is a member of the Model Shipwrights of Western NY (Rochester, NY).  He presented their group build of the PBR Mark I - USN River Patrol Boat which is for the Military Historical Society of Rochester Museum.  The original contract for 120 of these boats was awarded to United Boat Works of Bellingham, WA.  They are a reworked design of a 31 foot pleasure/work craft with a fibreglass hull.  They had a 10'-7" beam, twin 180 HP diesel engines, Jacuzzi pump jet drive and a top speed of 28.5 knots.  Armament consisted of twin 50 calibre guns forward, single 50 calibre gun aft and single 30 calibre guns on the  port and starboard sides.  The 1:6 scale model would be 5 feet long.   The photos above support the description that follows.

The group started their build with slotted strong back fastened to a plywood base. The bulkheads were 3/16" plywood and Balsa fillers were added at the bow.  This was covered with a 1/16" basswood sheet.  Evercoat Easy Sand body filler and Nitro Stan Glazing Compound was used for fairing the hull.  Decking details and compartments were built on that.  The Gun Tub and aft gun were built off the model and fixed to it.  This is as far as the group have gotten with their build to date.

John presented his 1:25 scale plank on frame build of John Cabot's ship Matthew (1497).  No one knows what she actually looked like.  The job of replicating the ship for the 500th anniversary of the voyage (1997) was assigned to Colin Mudie who based his reconstruction on the know small caravels of the time.  The main differences being that the newer ship needed modern amenities such as, an engine, propellers, Carey floats (life rafts) and navigation equipment.  This rebuild took two years (1994-1996) at a cost of $3.8 million.  The full size ship is 78 feet long, 20-1/2 foot beam and has a draft of 7 feet.  John's model is based on this, less the modern updates, and is just over 3 feet long.  The photos above support the description that follows.

​Frames were made from wood blanks oriented to assure grain direction was at it strongest.  White PVA glue was used exclusively.  The model was built using the Harold Hahn method, using a notched template to install frames upside down with all top timber extensions secured to the build board.  After having all frames installed the wales and outer planking were added.

The model was flipped upright and work commenced on the interior.  First the installation of the deck support beams, followed by the deck planking.   Stanchions were added to support the bulwarks.  Details were added to the deck, winch, small boat, swivel guns, and crew figures. Masts with crows nest, rigging, sails and flags followed.  Now a days John colour inkjet prints his flags onto cigarette paper.  The paper is cellophane taped to regular bond paper so it can be fed through the printer.  In this case both sides were printed separately as mirror images onto silk and glued back to back.

Mort is building the Caldercraft HMS Victory at 1:72 scale.  He decided to expose and supplement the details of the captain's and masters secretary's cabins, and upper gun deck.  He replaced the kit supplied Tanganyika decking with Maple.  The port side of the quarterdeck and forecastle were planked whereas the starboard side was left open to allow viewing through the deck. He added hammocks to the hammock cranes around the perimeter of the ship.  He also hand painted all the signal flags and placed them inside the flag storage cabinet with canvas covers folded up on top.  The photos above show some of his work!

Our April virtual ZOOM meeting was attended by 23 members from across Canada, the USA and the UK.

Jared explained what was meant by FOCUS STACKING of digital images and how it is used to create an image that has tack sharp focus throughout the photograph.  A series of identical images are shot in camera, changing the focal point of each image.  The series is then loaded into software that identifies the sharpest parts of each component image and  blends those parts together into a single composite focus stacked images.  It is extremely important to not move the camera (use a tripod), and have proper camera settings. 
This downloadable PDF will help explain the process....

Raymond described how he made his two Rigging Tools to help handle the small scale rigging of his 1:64 HMS Syren model (circa 1812) that he has been working on for two and a half years.  Both are made with some dowels for handles and large needles.  The top end of the eye of one needle is cut off to leave two prongs or a fork to assist in pushing threads whereas the second needle has one side of the eye cut out to leave a hook used to pull the threads.  Tweezers rounded off his set of tools required for rigging.

He works on his rigging from inboard to outboard and had to learn to tighten the lines just enough that they looked tight but didn't affect the rigging on the other side of the ship.  Patience and persistence are required. Raymond also described how he uses diluted white glue to seal his knots as they sometimes come loose.  White glue allows time to make adjustments before the glue sets and it dries clear.  He has run his rigging lines through bees wax to help them stay smooth. 

​Members commented that Elmers school glue is a pre-diluted white glue of good consistency and lines that have been coated in bees wax can be pulled over an 80 Watt incandescent light bulb to remove the small hairs on the thread ans melts the wax into the thread.  Some use fly fishing fly tying Head Cement to seal their rigging knots.  it is a thin water based and odourless sealant.

Hugh showed us images of the Holland Class Submarines, presently a 20 year project of his.  He described how it was designed by John Holland and built in New York with the idea of the Irish using it to fight the British.  Ironically Mr. Holland's first customer was in fact the Royal Navy and then, eventually, the United States Navy.

The first boat, HOLLAND I,  a two cylinder gasoline engine powered a one man vessel, was made of sheet metal and was very small and worked!

The HOLLAND II - the Fenian Ram was Mr. Holland's second successful boat.  Hugh's model is under construction.  Rudder, diving planes, propeller and 1000 rivets are yet to be added.

The HOLLAND V was purchased by the US Navy and had improved features.

Wayne described how he used a Cricut Machine to cut copper plates from 2" x 16' roll of adhesive backed copper slug repellent tape purchased from Lee Valley Tools.  The Cricut Machine was easily programmed on his computer using Design Space to cut rows of scaled rectangular plates without cutting through the backing paper so the plates were still stuck onto the backing ready to be peeled off to use.  He embossed rows of simulated nail bumps to make it all look more realistic.  These were then peeled off the roll and stuck onto the hull of his 1:48 scale model of HMS Surprise.  He needed more than 1000 plates to complete this part of his build.  When done he cleaned off any finger prints and applied a couple coats of clear acrylic varnish.  It has been a couple years but he's noticed a nice patina developing on the copper.

Ralf showed us his completed Trumpeter kit plastic build of the RMS Titanic at 1:200 scale with a lot of modifications (i.e. he installed a wood deck and cut out portholes). This is his first plastic model.  Ralf builds extensively in paper and will be showing us those models in June.

Raymond showed us his 17th century Dutch galleon kit of the Half Moon which is still under construction.  It is a Corel manufactured 1:50 scale kit model.  When he acquired it the box was damaged and many pieces were missing.

Ray provided images of the completely refurbished POW model of the Bismarck.  Broken masts repaired, missing handrails and stanchions replaced, rigging repaired, crane rebuilt, cleaned and remounted.  He has made a dust cover and base with a pull out story board.

We had another successful virtual meeting with 24 members in attendance!  A special thanks to Jared Fein for having assembled the searchable BLOG INDEX which is now available as a download XLS or PDF file near the top of this page.

We began with a presentation by a special guest speaker, Bob Filipowski, describing how his Chicago, USA area Tri-Club Association members built their 18th century English Long Boat Windlass that would have been used to assist raising the ship's anchor.

Bob explained how he used his Dremel Rotary Tool Drill Press/Work Station to create the bevels on all four corners along the centre length of the windlass. He sets the tool at a 45°, clamped securely to the work bench and uses it in conjunction with his Preac Table Saw's rip fence and vernier dial adjustment.  A sheet of Bass wood is utilised as the work surface with 1/16" thick x 1/4" wide guides glued to it.  Wooden stops are clamped down at each end to assist in keeping all shaping symmetrical.  

Using some soft brass tubing that would fit over the barrel, he cut a slit cut in it and slipped it over the end of his work piece so he could grip it in his mini-lathe chuck.  He then cut the tapered ends on the lathe using chisels, files and round contoured sanding grips.

​Next was cutting in the square holes.  These were carefully marked off and round holes were drilled about half way through the windlass from each side as the hole might have drifted if drilled completely through.   The drilled holes are slightly smaller than the final square hole width.  Bob made a broach out of a metal nail to cut the square corners in the round holes.  The nail was shaped into a square broach with his Dremel Rotary tool using a cutoff disk mounted on top of a fibre disk backer to provide additional support so it hopefully wouldn't shatter as they are known to do.  Measuring across the flats with a vernier helped to keep the shape square and the proper size.

Next came the windlass mounting plates which where rectangular in shape with a slotted pocket for the windlass axle stub.  Bob decided to glue the axle stub into the slot, and the windlass was glued over that providing a stronger joint but if looked at from the side it seemed as if the windlass and axle were one piece.

The final pieces to make were the two windlass bars which were quite straight forward.  Rounded handle with a square tapered end.  Once bar was set into the windlass where as the other was lashed to the starboard riser.

Don Knowles described to us his method of making his forestay mouse.  The forestay is a large diameter rope used to support the foremast.  It has an eye spliced in the end, wraps around the top of the upper part of the lower mast and passes through the eye splice.  It then runs forward and secures to the bowsprit.  The mouse acts as a stopper to keep the eye from sliding up to and clenching around the mast.  Downloadable PDF  document explaining his process available here...

Alan O'Neill made a presentation on Treenails (aka Trenels or Trunnels), describing the different types, when and where they were used and when specific hole patterns were employed for hull and deck planking.  He a also discussed deck plugs and finished with explaining how modellers make treenails and plugs.   His complete presentation and images are available for download as a PDF here...

Robin Coles showed us his latest project, improving his hovercraft working model by various  methods , firstly by improving the airflow to the vertical lift fan/motor with an improved air intake system and reducing weight. First  stage was to cut away the old inefficient air intake grill ready for a 3D printed inlet housing,  He also removed some stiffening struts to around the  propeller housing to compensate for the additional weight he will be adding.   Also  a 3D printed servo mount was made to fit in between the rear propeller guards.  He will be giving us another update as he progresses with this right up to her trials on land and water. 

Our second meeting of 2022 was quite a success with a record membership of 77 people from across Canada, the USA and the UK.  Another record of 41 members having registered for the virtual meeting, and yet one more record broken with 35 having attended!

The meeting kicked off with Robin showing us a short video of his V2 engine model (introduced last month) actually running.   ​ The video is much too large for us to attach here!

Tijs presented two coins from his collection.  First was the Spanish Real or Pieces of Eight that he picked up on a trip to the Caribbean.  These were regularly cut up into halves, quarters and eights which is where the term Pieces of Eight originates.  His coin has a "TS" mint mark showing it was rarer type minted in Boliva, not the more common Mexico mark "MO".  Only a few of these coins were minted as the emperor Carolus III was replaced by Carolus IV in 1789, so only a few were minted.  The two Pillars of Hercules are displayed with a ribbon flowing around them.  It is said that this image is where some believe our present day $ dollar sign came from.  The stamped markings on the coin show it was used in the opium trade, which was the reason smugglers from China buried them to avoid inspectors discovering the trade they were practising.

Tijs then showed us a $10 copper coin from the East India Company recovered from the Admiral Gardner.  These could only be used in the east where trade was conducted by the company.  On the back of the coin are three languages, English, Latin and Persian.  Persian was the dominate language in India at the time.  The Admiral Gardner, a three master , 118 feet long, 36 foot beam, with 23 guns, set off on her 6th voyage from the Port of Dover, on the 24th of January 1809 she was caught in a violent storm and got caught in the shifting Goodwin sands off South Foreland, beaten by the storm, and eventually broke up.  Some coins were found in 1976 when the sands were dredged for the Dover Docks.  In 1983 a fishing boat had her lines caught on a wreck.  Divers confirmed to be the Admiral Gardner by divers in 1984 and about half the coins recovered.  In 1985 a 300 mile radius around the area was declared off limits which has forbidden any further disturbance of the wreck and cargo through some coins continue to wash up.

There are no drawings of the Admiral Gardner but Tijs has some from a sister ship and hopes to build a model someday soon.
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We were then shown an image of the manually operated press which was later automated.

​Derek showed us the state of his present build of the Canadian Schooner Bluenose.  The ship was built in 1921 in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, as a fishing/racing schooner.   In 1942 she was sold to the West Indies Trading Company and converted to a coastal freighter and in 1946 she stuck a coral reef and was left to rot.  Derek's model depicts both the aspects of fish and racing.  He made sure he had the correct vibrant hull colours.  He presently is looking for a supply of Silkspan to make his sails... one member has a supply and volunteered to drop some off to him.  Many of the deck furniture pieces are made from solid pieces of wood.  The fishing dories were 3D printed.  He will be adding thwarts to them or covering them with canvas.  His fasteners were not blackened which now is a concern to him... it was suggested he could use a black permanent marker to colour them in place, masking the surrounding features to keep them clean.  Gun Black (Gel in a tube) was also suggested.  Derek has 3D printed some crates and barrels to place on the deck and dowels shaped with sandpaper while rotating it with an electric drill.  He has just started on his topmast.

​Joe has been restoring a Florida Sharpie fishing schooner and has been struggling with the tiny ships wheel.  Having found a wheel that was similar he was able to get dimensions and photos to try to replicate it from a similar build on the MSW forum.  He is considering 3D printing it but has found there is a considerable learning curve.  Joe was hoping for some comments to help him decide what to do next.  Ray followed up by email with suggested methods of how he had made a few tiny wheels with ABS tube, brass wires and JB Weld.  We then had two other members contact Joe and offered to review his .STL file, so he may get his ship's wheel 3D printed after all!

​Ray presented the 1:840 (1 inch =70 ft) scale model of the Bismarck that had been made by a Prisoner of War in 1944 at Prison Camp 133 in Lethbridge, Alberta.  The 13 inch long case unlocks with two rotating knobs and folds open to expose the 12 inch long model that slides out of the case.  The case top and bottom is fine grain spruce and the sides which are curved are steamed oak.  The top and sides were separating and the model had considerable damage and dust.  The base is marked with the place made, date, and possibly the modeller's initials: W.St.  There was a Wilhem Schmidt, Lead Machinist, who was one of the 155 survivors of the Bismarck's sinking.  The mounting base is Birdseye maple.  Ray described all the damage done to the miniature model and then showed all the repairs he made to it to bring it back to pristine condition.  He will be making a display case for the model to keep it dust free and safe.

Ron gave a short update on his Scottish Maid (1839) first shown to us in May 2019.  He has dusted it off and made a small number of corrections which he became aware were necessary and intends to get back to her!  We look forward to seeing some progress in the future.

Alan gave an update to what has been keeping him busy the last two months.  He completed the install of all square frames for his build of HMS Bellerophon (1786) and is presently installing chocks between all the frames and gunports to stiffen her up before cutting out the gunports and installing the sills.  He built a height gauge with hemlock and maple strips and a finishing nail.  This will be used to fine tune the location of the gunports before any cutting is done.  And he made himself a thickness gauge to use on his Byrnes table sawn to cut the thin strips for the chocks mentioned above.  This was modelled after what he considered the best of both Kurt's and John's gauges.   Alan mentioned he had tried the WHEELER BLOCK idea to keep his fingers safe and also hold down the wood being cut, and it worked great.  This idea was discussed by Kurt at the NRG "using the table saw" virtual seminar held last December.

Our first meeting of 2022, though riddled with technical problems for the first time ever, was still quite a success

 Paul gave an interesting presentation describing the 3D Resin Printing Process.

It begins with a 3D model that is converted to an STL file so the slicer program can create the g-code that the printer reads.  Paul uses an Elegoo Mars 2 Printer and the Lychee Slicer Program (free version available).  The slicer predicts the print time material used and material cost.  The printer needs to be in a warm environment and the action of printing is executed by continuously dipping the build plate down into the resin bath.  The printed part is built hanging off the underside of the build plate.

When done the part(s) must be washed to remove the unused resin.  Paul does this in a pickle jar filled with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol.  The parts with printed supports are swirled around in the alcohol for a few minutes.  The supports are then removed and the parts being kept are dried in a paper towel and then put back into the alcohol and swirled for a couple more minutes.  To keep the bad smell from the process under control Paul puts the discarded supports and used paper towels in a zip lock style bag.

Once clean the parts need to be cured to harden them and he uses a purchased Elegoo Mercury Curing Station to do this.  Curing takes about 6 minutes in this station.  After this they are ready to be painted, if desired,  and used.

Alan gave a presentation on 3D printing with filament.

His printer is a JGAurora A5 printer with a heated glass bed.  It will print in various materials but Alan uses a PLA or Polyactic Acid, a biodegradable and environmentally friendly thermoplastic made from corn or sugar cane.  In the case of the gun carriage model used in this presentation the filament was a PLA/Wood mix. 

He begins by creating his model with the free hobbyist version of Fusion 360.  This file is then exported as an .stl file that his free CURA slicer program can read and convert to g-code which is what the printer reads.  The slicer predicts the print time material used and material cost.

In preparation his printer bed must first be cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol and then levelled to the printer nozzle when hot (60°C or 140°F).   The filament is fed from the reel through the gear drive to the 215°C or 419°F heated nozzle.  The g-code is loaded and printed.  When done there is some cleanup (filing and sanding) and the part is ready to be painted, if desired, and used.

Info on links to free programs and websites with free STL files here:

Kurt showed us how to make two different coils of rope.

The first (above) was a cheesed or flat coil of rope to be laid on the deck.  The method is explained in the four slides.
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The second type (below) was a coil of running rigging rope that would hang from a belaying pin.

Ian gave us tips on how to display our models LIVE on a virtual (ZOOM) platform.  It is necessary to keep both the model and camera fixed and steady for clear and crisp detailed viewing.  A camera with a tripod stand plugged into a nearby computer is required.  An auto focus zoom type camera would be a tremendous aid to the process.  The model should be mounted on a rotating pedestal or turntable.  If manually rotated your fingers may be in the image.  There are remote turntables available (on Amazon) at a cost or you might consider rigging yours with a string (see below).  Good lighting is important and using a board background to help deflect the light onto your model and hide any background viewing distractions is a worthwhile consideration.

Images below show, in concept, how to convert a standard hobby painting pedestal into a remote turntable.

Robin delighted us with something different.  He had a metal V2 Engine kit he had decided to work on and showed us the results.